Pushkar - A Hippie Paradise
5:21 PM
THE LOCATION
According to legend, Pushkar, which is located in the desert of Rajasthan, came into being when Lord Brahma, the Creator, dropped a lotus flower from the heavens in order to kill a demon. Magically, where the petals landed, three lakes appeared and Lord Brahma is said to have organised a gathering of 900,000 celestial beings on the banks of the lake. Pushkar is a prominent Hindu pilgrimage town and is wrapped around a holy lake. The waters of Pushkar are considered to be sacred. It has around 52 bathing ghats that are found around the perimeter of the lake. Hindus use these ghats as a form of religious ritual bathing or cleansing. One side of Pushkar lake is surrounded by dry Arawali hills and on the other side is borders the sand and bare land. It is the home of the only Brahama temple in the world.
Today Pushkar Lake is considered one of India’s most sacred sites and is surrounded by hundreds of temples and bathing ghats. Each year in October and November, hundreds of thousands of pilgrims make their way to the waters in the belief that during this period the water will cleanse them of all impurities. This celebration coincides with the largest camel market in the world when more than 150,000 dealers and tourists come to the small town. It is just over some mountains from the city of Ajmer.
THE STORY
The 500 temples that surround the lake are connected to the water by 52 ghats – said to represent each of Rajasthan’s maharajis. These rich old men would build their own guesthouses and hire priests to do their religious business on their behalf. Interesting facts include the fact that Mahatma Gandhi and Jawaharlal Nehru’s ashes were sprinkled into the lake from the main ghat. In addition, Brahma ghat is supposed to have been Brahma’s very own worship spot.
The story goes that Brahma was going to marry Savitri, but she was late for the ceremony and Brahma had to quickly find someone else to marry at the gathering of the deities, yagya. The only eligible woman was Gaytri, from the untouchable Gujar caste. In order to purify her, they passed her through the mouth of a cow (gaya means cow, tri means through). Savitri, nderstandably, was rather upset with this change of events and cursed Brahma, saying he can only be worshipped at Pushkar. She also said that the Gujar caste could only be liberated after death if their ashes were scattered into the lake. This tradition still persists and Pushkar is the site of the only Brahma temple in India.
AHMEDABAD TO AJMER
October 2014, I thought of visiting Pushkar with one of my friend. This little hippie paradise of Rajasthan always tempted me in some way or another. and thought of visiting a place that had been in your head for a long time certainly makes you excited. We had a sleepless over night journey from Ahmedabad to Ajmer in a state transport bus. Windows were broken and chilly wind in midnight made bus arctic. I was also not carrying blanket hence slipping your head between Legs became to only option to deal with chilly winds. Sipping coffee on regular was another help to keep going. We reached Ajmer very early in the morning before the dawn and It was raining. from Ajmer, we rented a car and shared with bunch of travelers from different parts of the country. I took the front seat as i wanted to capture the beautiful route which was surrounded by mountains and hills. The scenic route made me remind of the song 'What a wonderful world' by Louis Armstrong.
Due to its popularity among long term backpackers, Pushkar is blessed with all ranges of accommodation. I preferred the nearest one from the lake. Hotel Lake-View!
Having reached Pushkar we decided to straightaway head to the “Pink Floyd Hotel and Café” to regain some energy after a tiring and shivering journey after checking into our hotel. But it was quite far from there and we din't even knew the way. so we quickly rushed to the laura's cafe, which was just nearby. As expected, Morning fog enveloped the whole town but afternoon Sun cleared up the haze. We were surprised by feeling the change of weather since the early morning. We went to rooftop and had a delicious breakfast with the scenic view of the town. They had good quality music speakers with 3.5mm jack input and that was enough to don't let us move for 2 hours. On our the way back to hotel, I stopped by a poster. My friend asked me "Whats that?" "WTF, Its Indian Ocean! and they are performing in Pushkar ghat by tonight." We were looking at each other and could't believe it. that poster given us some extra boost over a teen of beer. We quickly rushed to the ghat which was mentioned in the poster to make sure. when we reached at the venue, we saw some people setting up lights and stage. we asked the locals about the tickets, and we were surprised hearing him saying that 'It's free and open for all!' This could have not been better than that. What else do we need?
Even though Pushkar is very small, you definitely feel a presence in the town. I am not sure if it is the strong religious pull of the holy lake or the soft humming of people performing their pujas that permeates the town that creates its allurement. I was surprised to see the influence of foreign tourists on Pushkar. There were more foreigners than Indians. and It was completely like a Hippies' paradise! I found myself to be around lot of like-minded people. Its been a pleasure exchanging ideas over a cup of tea and smoke. I felt like a home after spending some quality time.
Beware though – the Brahmin (priests) can be quite forceful in getting you to take part in Puja ( a repetition of prayers at the water’s edge including the throwing of petals, rice and the tying of a red cord around your wrist, followed by a donation). On my first visit to the ghat, a very proactive Brahmin took me through the prayers and blessing only to virtually demand that I donate a huge sum of money. For me, it made the experience quite unpleasant – while I understand that they have to raise money, it felt insincere and I couldn’t help feeling like I’d been suckered. Wherever you are in India, generally if any mystical looking person tries to tie a blessed cord around your wrist and dot your forehead with red or yellow, know that you are going to be expected to cough up funds. Thankfully, once you’ve done your bit, you’re unlikely to be hassled by other Brahmins later on as they’ll be able to see your “Pushkar Passport” (your red thread).
The batherless bathing ghats (if there were bathers, I would not have taken the photos out of respect). At the time, I didn't realise that you were not allowed to take photos here and was chased down by a man after I snapped a few quick ones. Luckily he didn't make me delete them. Nonetheless, after that whole palaver, walking around the ghats, the holy lake glimmering in the afternoon sun, was inspiring and very relaxing in the warm dry air. We were reached to another side (from our hotel) of the lake which was surrounded by white domesticated ducks. We spent some time playing with them, clicking some pictures.
MEET THE MASTER DRUMMER OF RAJASTHAN
Finally we reached to Hotel Radhika Palace to take drum class from Mr. Nathulal Solanki, a well known Nagara player. Nagara also called as kettledrum, holds a significant place amongst Rajasthan’s folk instruments. Nathulal Solanki, the maestro of this wonderful instrument, hails from prestigious the ‘Pushkar Sangeet Gharana’ and has many music commendations to his name. Born and brought up in a family of music lovers, he showed prodigious ability of playing Nagara from his childhood. With the growing years, he mastered in Kuchamani Khayal and staged it all acorss the globe. Being louder than every other percussion instrument Nagara dominates the performance providing it with fascinating pauses. The beats of Nagara thrill the audience and the manipulation of the sticks with a dominant resonance sets the pace of the performance. The acclaimed artist has performed in different countries and with various legends of music spreading the culture and tradition of Rajasthan throughout the world. The marvelous Nagara player can also replicate classical beats of the Tabla on Nagara. For his contribution to the Rajasthani Music and art and taking it on the international platform, he has been lauded with many awards by various prominent personalities of the country.
In the evening i roamed extensively in Pushkar town to feel the aura of this mysterious town and i was trying to understand the ulterior life which runs in parallel with the traditional going of the town. Transformation of Pushkar during evening time is something mystic and will definitely catch your attention. You will find yourself in all together a different place which you had seen during light hours. I felt like being in down town surrounded by cowboys and awesome chicks. i was stunned through out the evening. There were group of tourists smoking pots, making joints and even taking some otherwise. Most of the roof top restaurants were playing rock and roll (psychedelic rock) and screening classic Hollywood stuff. Then I realized that the absolute freedom of Pushkar is true aura that attracts visitors in such an ordinary town. after that rave evening full of surprises and discoveries, I went back to the hotel.
Next morning was a bit foggy. a bit sunny. a bit chilly. a bit of everything. I roamed in those streets of pushkar and on the bank of the holy Pushkar lake. pilgrims were taking bath and were offering their prayers to the Deities. some kids were trying to sell handicrafts to the tourists. some tourists were packing their belongings to continue their spree. some were waking up after a lethargic evening. some were sipping tea. some were craving for substances to get high again.
PINK FLOYD CAFE EXPERIENCE
Pink Floyd Cafe: This was an awesome cafe that was full of hippies. In order to get to the cafe, you had to climb up some very steep and narrow stairs. I definitely wouldn't like to have tried after a few Kingfishers! It was hard enough for me to try and get in there without cracking my head sober!
In between ever changing surroundings, We went to Pink Floyd, well purely out of curiosity and because Pink Floyd happens to be one of my favorite band. The food is not something that I can rave about here, but it’s a must visit for all music lovers as this place is like a shrine of sorts to Floyd! They have Pink Floyd posters all over the place, they play Floyd on the stereo and heck! Even their rooms are named after Pink Floyd albums! Imagine telling someone, that you were staying at the ‘Dark Side Of The Moon’! The owner though is a bit of a piss off as he won’t let you take pictures of anything inside, although I did manage a few clicks on the sly. Also do not be alarmed if the waiter there casually asks you if you’d be interested in weed or hash. You can buy it if you want some and if you don’t, then you can just politely decline. No one is judging!
THE FOOD:
Pushkar, being a holy city, is entirely vegetarian. No eggs, meat or alcohol are allowed in Pushkar and drugs are frowned upon. And, while alcohol is officially outlawed, if you really feel like a drink, most restaurants can get you a beer. However, that doesn’t stop the pleasure seekers and tourists from enjoying whatever their poison may be. A very important thing to be mentioned here, is that you won’t get any non-vegetarian fare anywhere in Pushkar, but let that not stop you from trying out some really good food at some of the cafes here. Another thing that you won’t find here is alcohol, although some cafes do serve beer on the sly, Pink Floyd being one of them.
In Pushkar, you will find many roadside restaurants, small cafes and eateries serving Israeli, Italian, German, Mexican, Chinese and different varieties of Indian food. Some of the popular cafes being “The Funky Monkey Café”, “Out Of The Blue”, “Sunset Café” , “The Rasta Café” and of course “The Pink Floyd Hotel and Café”. Every restaurant we went to had many delicious options and we found ourselves visiting an assortment of eateries and rooftop restaurants. The destination is popular with tourists and you could see quite a number of young travellers looking as though they had consumed far too many bhang lassi (like a marijuana milkshake). Beautiful, thin women with dirty dreadlocks and bloodshot eyes sat in corner cafes with their bearded and dusty partners. They are in pushkar not just to smoke as much dope as possible and float around in a stoned haze but to live a peaceful life.
The best of all is the environmentally friendly gulkand lassi! they serve lassies and coffee in clay pots. Once you are finished you can just throw them on the ground and because it is clay, it will just go back into the earth (everybody throws their rubbish on the ground here, it's awful! Rubbish bins are scarce but I will still walk around with trash in my hand until I find one!)
From speaking to a number of locals, it seems that Israelis in particular have a very bad reputation and are not well liked. They tend to travel in large groups, living cheaply and spacing out on drugs. It is one of the popular countries for Israelis who have just finished their national service in Israel and India is their country of choice for getting lost. I found it quite amusing that many of them had fake dreadlock extensions added to their hair. In any case, I am not quite sure what it is that they do that so irritates the Indians, as there are many other travellers who are also intent on losing themselves through hallucinatory experiences.
LEGACY OF TEMPLES:
With over 500 different temples in Pushkar, if it’s your thing, you could spend days visiting all of them. I quite enjoyed walking up a nearby hill to the Gayitri temple which was built for Brahma’s wife. In any case, Savitri flew off in a huff to the temple that now stands on the high hill across the way from Gaytri’s temple, while the main Brahma temple sits near the water’s edge. The walk up to Gaytri Temple take about 20 minutes, while that up to Savitri apparently takes around an hour and a half.
Amazing view of Pushkar from the savitri temple. I made my friend climb to the top of this temple with me to take an areal view of the town! The climb was supposed to take an hour, but we did it in about half an hour. We took too many breaks and went slowly! As we walked down the trail, I noticed the goat was following us, but at quite a distance. On a short break, I quickly clicked some pictures and the goat continued to follow us for a few feet. After we broke out of the tree area, the goat backed off and stayed up by the trees. I guess the goat lost interest. I'm not sure if the goat liked my beret or maybe wondered what we were doing up there. I was seriously struggling at one point when we were so close to the temple. after breathing for some time, we got on the top and It was definitely a challenging climb. (but probably more so due to the fact that I haven't done any exercise!). The view was certainly worth the panting! We were so high!
SHOPPING
The vibrancy of the colourful state of Rajasthan is beautifully portrayed in the clothes, accessories and handicrafts available here. You can soak into the rich culture by donning the traditional garb complete with elaborate embroidery and silver jewellery, or you can go for a bohemian hippie girl look and choose from the abundance of printed kurtas, dhoti pants and a sling bag.
What to buy: Clothes, ethnic costumes, silver jewellery, groovy accessories, traditional handicrafts and souvenirs like Rajasthani puppets, pottery, embroidered fabrics and brass utensils among other homeware.
Where to buy: The major shopping areas in Pushkar are Sarafa Bazar, Baza Bazar and Kedalganj bazaar. All the bazaars comprise narrow streets that are often packed with little shops and stalls. Another great place to shop is close to Pink Floyd Café, Choti Basti where everything is for Rs 20 only! Clothes, purses, and a few accessories like head bands. Some of the stuff is old and some new, but if you dig in, you’re sure to find something you like. So stroll around and take your pick. And, do not forget to bargain!
The variety in clothes is unlimited. Dhoti pants, culottes, harem pants, kaftans, kurtas, sarongs, tunics, dresses, shrugs and lots more. Fabrics range from cotton and polyester to silk and weaves, such as khadi and jute. Block-printed textiles and tie and dye patterns reminiscent of this region’s local produce are common here. Ethnic jewellery, mainly in silver and oxidised silver, lac bangles, beaded necklaces, funky bracelets and fancy footwear are very popular with tourists. Most of these items come from Barmer and other tribal regions of Rajasthan and have been worked by hand.
One of the most spectacular pieces of art to buy from here is the exquisite range of miniature paintings made by local artists. Most of them depict stories of olden days when kings and queens would rule over common folk. There are also a number of leather goods, mesmerising puppets and pottery.
As we were in Pushkar during festival season, accommodation was not that cheap and the main bazaar area, which has silver jewellery, clothes, fabric and curio shops as well as food stalls, was overcrowded. We took a stroll around the Pushkar market, where you can pick up some interesting jewelry, mojris, colorful dupattas etc. There were amazing clothes and stunning silver jewellery. If I had a larger suitcase, I would have gone shopping crazy.
Don’t get startled if random men on bikes approach you as you are walking down the lanes and give you information on “Raves” happening at a distance and literally recite the hallucinogens that you will get there. Apparently it’s normal, as lots of raves happen here. My advice, just keep moving unless you want to attend one.
PUSHKAR FAIR
If there is one thing that Pushkar is known for, It is the famous Pushkar mela; the camel and livestock fair that is held here annually which attracts throngs of tourists from all over the world. Pushkar is an interesting place to visit, especially to see the balance between the religious importance of the place and the hipster attitude it exudes!
Every November, the sleepy little township of Pushkar in Rajasthan, India comes alive with a riot of colors and a frenzied burst of activity. The occasion: PUSHKAR FAIR. Very few, if at all any, fairs in the world can match the liveliness of Pushkar. Most people associate the Pushkar Fair with the world's largest camel fair. But it is much more than that.
EPILOGUE
We spent 4 days in magical and mystical Pushkar. A small town in the dessert well known for its Brahmin Temple and Sacred Lake. Here, thousands of pilgrims come at least once a year to participate in a Karmic Ceremony and wash away their sins by the lake. I gave many thanks for how fortunate I am, prayed for my loved ones and the ones that have left this world. After the ceremony, one throws flowers into the lake and makes a wish.
It is an occasion for villagers from far and near to gather together and enjoy a welcome break from their harsh life of the arid desert. And enjoy they do! In dazzling style and colors. It is an occasion for Hindu pilgrims to converge for a holy dip in the sacred Pushkar Lake to "wash away the sins of a lifetime" and pay obeisance at the ONLY Brahma temple in the world.
What really surprised me about the town was the type of tourists that were in Pushkar. It seems that many people travel to Pushkar for a variety of reasons; some for the religious pilgrimage, others for the general experience and for the vast majority it was to spend some quality time with Mary Jane.
Yet in spite of this, pilgrims still make their way to Pushkar and perform puja (prayers) at the many bathing ghats that surround the now dry lake. The scene is peaceful and powerful – bathers gather in the water while cows wander the steps and holy men provide flower petals and blessings to visitors.
So if you want to experience the highs of living a peaceful life, steeped in unique culture, pushkar is the place. Found in the true glory of it's history, will connect you to the good life. For the visitor, it is an unparalleled and unforgettable experience to capture the vibrancy of the entire state of Rajasthan in one place. Pushkar is one of those town which has amazing life running underneath and that part will only be intangible if you stay for long. This blog post attempts to give you a glimpse of the magic of Pushkar. Of course, you have to be there to truly understand it.
According to legend, Pushkar, which is located in the desert of Rajasthan, came into being when Lord Brahma, the Creator, dropped a lotus flower from the heavens in order to kill a demon. Magically, where the petals landed, three lakes appeared and Lord Brahma is said to have organised a gathering of 900,000 celestial beings on the banks of the lake. Pushkar is a prominent Hindu pilgrimage town and is wrapped around a holy lake. The waters of Pushkar are considered to be sacred. It has around 52 bathing ghats that are found around the perimeter of the lake. Hindus use these ghats as a form of religious ritual bathing or cleansing. One side of Pushkar lake is surrounded by dry Arawali hills and on the other side is borders the sand and bare land. It is the home of the only Brahama temple in the world.
Today Pushkar Lake is considered one of India’s most sacred sites and is surrounded by hundreds of temples and bathing ghats. Each year in October and November, hundreds of thousands of pilgrims make their way to the waters in the belief that during this period the water will cleanse them of all impurities. This celebration coincides with the largest camel market in the world when more than 150,000 dealers and tourists come to the small town. It is just over some mountains from the city of Ajmer.
THE STORY
The 500 temples that surround the lake are connected to the water by 52 ghats – said to represent each of Rajasthan’s maharajis. These rich old men would build their own guesthouses and hire priests to do their religious business on their behalf. Interesting facts include the fact that Mahatma Gandhi and Jawaharlal Nehru’s ashes were sprinkled into the lake from the main ghat. In addition, Brahma ghat is supposed to have been Brahma’s very own worship spot.
The story goes that Brahma was going to marry Savitri, but she was late for the ceremony and Brahma had to quickly find someone else to marry at the gathering of the deities, yagya. The only eligible woman was Gaytri, from the untouchable Gujar caste. In order to purify her, they passed her through the mouth of a cow (gaya means cow, tri means through). Savitri, nderstandably, was rather upset with this change of events and cursed Brahma, saying he can only be worshipped at Pushkar. She also said that the Gujar caste could only be liberated after death if their ashes were scattered into the lake. This tradition still persists and Pushkar is the site of the only Brahma temple in India.
AHMEDABAD TO AJMER
October 2014, I thought of visiting Pushkar with one of my friend. This little hippie paradise of Rajasthan always tempted me in some way or another. and thought of visiting a place that had been in your head for a long time certainly makes you excited. We had a sleepless over night journey from Ahmedabad to Ajmer in a state transport bus. Windows were broken and chilly wind in midnight made bus arctic. I was also not carrying blanket hence slipping your head between Legs became to only option to deal with chilly winds. Sipping coffee on regular was another help to keep going. We reached Ajmer very early in the morning before the dawn and It was raining. from Ajmer, we rented a car and shared with bunch of travelers from different parts of the country. I took the front seat as i wanted to capture the beautiful route which was surrounded by mountains and hills. The scenic route made me remind of the song 'What a wonderful world' by Louis Armstrong.
Due to its popularity among long term backpackers, Pushkar is blessed with all ranges of accommodation. I preferred the nearest one from the lake. Hotel Lake-View!
Having reached Pushkar we decided to straightaway head to the “Pink Floyd Hotel and Café” to regain some energy after a tiring and shivering journey after checking into our hotel. But it was quite far from there and we din't even knew the way. so we quickly rushed to the laura's cafe, which was just nearby. As expected, Morning fog enveloped the whole town but afternoon Sun cleared up the haze. We were surprised by feeling the change of weather since the early morning. We went to rooftop and had a delicious breakfast with the scenic view of the town. They had good quality music speakers with 3.5mm jack input and that was enough to don't let us move for 2 hours. On our the way back to hotel, I stopped by a poster. My friend asked me "Whats that?" "WTF, Its Indian Ocean! and they are performing in Pushkar ghat by tonight." We were looking at each other and could't believe it. that poster given us some extra boost over a teen of beer. We quickly rushed to the ghat which was mentioned in the poster to make sure. when we reached at the venue, we saw some people setting up lights and stage. we asked the locals about the tickets, and we were surprised hearing him saying that 'It's free and open for all!' This could have not been better than that. What else do we need?
Even though Pushkar is very small, you definitely feel a presence in the town. I am not sure if it is the strong religious pull of the holy lake or the soft humming of people performing their pujas that permeates the town that creates its allurement. I was surprised to see the influence of foreign tourists on Pushkar. There were more foreigners than Indians. and It was completely like a Hippies' paradise! I found myself to be around lot of like-minded people. Its been a pleasure exchanging ideas over a cup of tea and smoke. I felt like a home after spending some quality time.
Beware though – the Brahmin (priests) can be quite forceful in getting you to take part in Puja ( a repetition of prayers at the water’s edge including the throwing of petals, rice and the tying of a red cord around your wrist, followed by a donation). On my first visit to the ghat, a very proactive Brahmin took me through the prayers and blessing only to virtually demand that I donate a huge sum of money. For me, it made the experience quite unpleasant – while I understand that they have to raise money, it felt insincere and I couldn’t help feeling like I’d been suckered. Wherever you are in India, generally if any mystical looking person tries to tie a blessed cord around your wrist and dot your forehead with red or yellow, know that you are going to be expected to cough up funds. Thankfully, once you’ve done your bit, you’re unlikely to be hassled by other Brahmins later on as they’ll be able to see your “Pushkar Passport” (your red thread).
The batherless bathing ghats (if there were bathers, I would not have taken the photos out of respect). At the time, I didn't realise that you were not allowed to take photos here and was chased down by a man after I snapped a few quick ones. Luckily he didn't make me delete them. Nonetheless, after that whole palaver, walking around the ghats, the holy lake glimmering in the afternoon sun, was inspiring and very relaxing in the warm dry air. We were reached to another side (from our hotel) of the lake which was surrounded by white domesticated ducks. We spent some time playing with them, clicking some pictures.
MEET THE MASTER DRUMMER OF RAJASTHAN
Finally we reached to Hotel Radhika Palace to take drum class from Mr. Nathulal Solanki, a well known Nagara player. Nagara also called as kettledrum, holds a significant place amongst Rajasthan’s folk instruments. Nathulal Solanki, the maestro of this wonderful instrument, hails from prestigious the ‘Pushkar Sangeet Gharana’ and has many music commendations to his name. Born and brought up in a family of music lovers, he showed prodigious ability of playing Nagara from his childhood. With the growing years, he mastered in Kuchamani Khayal and staged it all acorss the globe. Being louder than every other percussion instrument Nagara dominates the performance providing it with fascinating pauses. The beats of Nagara thrill the audience and the manipulation of the sticks with a dominant resonance sets the pace of the performance. The acclaimed artist has performed in different countries and with various legends of music spreading the culture and tradition of Rajasthan throughout the world. The marvelous Nagara player can also replicate classical beats of the Tabla on Nagara. For his contribution to the Rajasthani Music and art and taking it on the international platform, he has been lauded with many awards by various prominent personalities of the country.
In the evening i roamed extensively in Pushkar town to feel the aura of this mysterious town and i was trying to understand the ulterior life which runs in parallel with the traditional going of the town. Transformation of Pushkar during evening time is something mystic and will definitely catch your attention. You will find yourself in all together a different place which you had seen during light hours. I felt like being in down town surrounded by cowboys and awesome chicks. i was stunned through out the evening. There were group of tourists smoking pots, making joints and even taking some otherwise. Most of the roof top restaurants were playing rock and roll (psychedelic rock) and screening classic Hollywood stuff. Then I realized that the absolute freedom of Pushkar is true aura that attracts visitors in such an ordinary town. after that rave evening full of surprises and discoveries, I went back to the hotel.
Next morning was a bit foggy. a bit sunny. a bit chilly. a bit of everything. I roamed in those streets of pushkar and on the bank of the holy Pushkar lake. pilgrims were taking bath and were offering their prayers to the Deities. some kids were trying to sell handicrafts to the tourists. some tourists were packing their belongings to continue their spree. some were waking up after a lethargic evening. some were sipping tea. some were craving for substances to get high again.
PINK FLOYD CAFE EXPERIENCE
Pink Floyd Cafe: This was an awesome cafe that was full of hippies. In order to get to the cafe, you had to climb up some very steep and narrow stairs. I definitely wouldn't like to have tried after a few Kingfishers! It was hard enough for me to try and get in there without cracking my head sober!
In between ever changing surroundings, We went to Pink Floyd, well purely out of curiosity and because Pink Floyd happens to be one of my favorite band. The food is not something that I can rave about here, but it’s a must visit for all music lovers as this place is like a shrine of sorts to Floyd! They have Pink Floyd posters all over the place, they play Floyd on the stereo and heck! Even their rooms are named after Pink Floyd albums! Imagine telling someone, that you were staying at the ‘Dark Side Of The Moon’! The owner though is a bit of a piss off as he won’t let you take pictures of anything inside, although I did manage a few clicks on the sly. Also do not be alarmed if the waiter there casually asks you if you’d be interested in weed or hash. You can buy it if you want some and if you don’t, then you can just politely decline. No one is judging!
THE FOOD:
Pushkar, being a holy city, is entirely vegetarian. No eggs, meat or alcohol are allowed in Pushkar and drugs are frowned upon. And, while alcohol is officially outlawed, if you really feel like a drink, most restaurants can get you a beer. However, that doesn’t stop the pleasure seekers and tourists from enjoying whatever their poison may be. A very important thing to be mentioned here, is that you won’t get any non-vegetarian fare anywhere in Pushkar, but let that not stop you from trying out some really good food at some of the cafes here. Another thing that you won’t find here is alcohol, although some cafes do serve beer on the sly, Pink Floyd being one of them.
In Pushkar, you will find many roadside restaurants, small cafes and eateries serving Israeli, Italian, German, Mexican, Chinese and different varieties of Indian food. Some of the popular cafes being “The Funky Monkey Café”, “Out Of The Blue”, “Sunset Café” , “The Rasta Café” and of course “The Pink Floyd Hotel and Café”. Every restaurant we went to had many delicious options and we found ourselves visiting an assortment of eateries and rooftop restaurants. The destination is popular with tourists and you could see quite a number of young travellers looking as though they had consumed far too many bhang lassi (like a marijuana milkshake). Beautiful, thin women with dirty dreadlocks and bloodshot eyes sat in corner cafes with their bearded and dusty partners. They are in pushkar not just to smoke as much dope as possible and float around in a stoned haze but to live a peaceful life.
The best of all is the environmentally friendly gulkand lassi! they serve lassies and coffee in clay pots. Once you are finished you can just throw them on the ground and because it is clay, it will just go back into the earth (everybody throws their rubbish on the ground here, it's awful! Rubbish bins are scarce but I will still walk around with trash in my hand until I find one!)
From speaking to a number of locals, it seems that Israelis in particular have a very bad reputation and are not well liked. They tend to travel in large groups, living cheaply and spacing out on drugs. It is one of the popular countries for Israelis who have just finished their national service in Israel and India is their country of choice for getting lost. I found it quite amusing that many of them had fake dreadlock extensions added to their hair. In any case, I am not quite sure what it is that they do that so irritates the Indians, as there are many other travellers who are also intent on losing themselves through hallucinatory experiences.
LEGACY OF TEMPLES:
With over 500 different temples in Pushkar, if it’s your thing, you could spend days visiting all of them. I quite enjoyed walking up a nearby hill to the Gayitri temple which was built for Brahma’s wife. In any case, Savitri flew off in a huff to the temple that now stands on the high hill across the way from Gaytri’s temple, while the main Brahma temple sits near the water’s edge. The walk up to Gaytri Temple take about 20 minutes, while that up to Savitri apparently takes around an hour and a half.
Amazing view of Pushkar from the savitri temple. I made my friend climb to the top of this temple with me to take an areal view of the town! The climb was supposed to take an hour, but we did it in about half an hour. We took too many breaks and went slowly! As we walked down the trail, I noticed the goat was following us, but at quite a distance. On a short break, I quickly clicked some pictures and the goat continued to follow us for a few feet. After we broke out of the tree area, the goat backed off and stayed up by the trees. I guess the goat lost interest. I'm not sure if the goat liked my beret or maybe wondered what we were doing up there. I was seriously struggling at one point when we were so close to the temple. after breathing for some time, we got on the top and It was definitely a challenging climb. (but probably more so due to the fact that I haven't done any exercise!). The view was certainly worth the panting! We were so high!
SHOPPING
The vibrancy of the colourful state of Rajasthan is beautifully portrayed in the clothes, accessories and handicrafts available here. You can soak into the rich culture by donning the traditional garb complete with elaborate embroidery and silver jewellery, or you can go for a bohemian hippie girl look and choose from the abundance of printed kurtas, dhoti pants and a sling bag.
What to buy: Clothes, ethnic costumes, silver jewellery, groovy accessories, traditional handicrafts and souvenirs like Rajasthani puppets, pottery, embroidered fabrics and brass utensils among other homeware.
Where to buy: The major shopping areas in Pushkar are Sarafa Bazar, Baza Bazar and Kedalganj bazaar. All the bazaars comprise narrow streets that are often packed with little shops and stalls. Another great place to shop is close to Pink Floyd Café, Choti Basti where everything is for Rs 20 only! Clothes, purses, and a few accessories like head bands. Some of the stuff is old and some new, but if you dig in, you’re sure to find something you like. So stroll around and take your pick. And, do not forget to bargain!
The variety in clothes is unlimited. Dhoti pants, culottes, harem pants, kaftans, kurtas, sarongs, tunics, dresses, shrugs and lots more. Fabrics range from cotton and polyester to silk and weaves, such as khadi and jute. Block-printed textiles and tie and dye patterns reminiscent of this region’s local produce are common here. Ethnic jewellery, mainly in silver and oxidised silver, lac bangles, beaded necklaces, funky bracelets and fancy footwear are very popular with tourists. Most of these items come from Barmer and other tribal regions of Rajasthan and have been worked by hand.
One of the most spectacular pieces of art to buy from here is the exquisite range of miniature paintings made by local artists. Most of them depict stories of olden days when kings and queens would rule over common folk. There are also a number of leather goods, mesmerising puppets and pottery.
As we were in Pushkar during festival season, accommodation was not that cheap and the main bazaar area, which has silver jewellery, clothes, fabric and curio shops as well as food stalls, was overcrowded. We took a stroll around the Pushkar market, where you can pick up some interesting jewelry, mojris, colorful dupattas etc. There were amazing clothes and stunning silver jewellery. If I had a larger suitcase, I would have gone shopping crazy.
Don’t get startled if random men on bikes approach you as you are walking down the lanes and give you information on “Raves” happening at a distance and literally recite the hallucinogens that you will get there. Apparently it’s normal, as lots of raves happen here. My advice, just keep moving unless you want to attend one.
PUSHKAR FAIR
If there is one thing that Pushkar is known for, It is the famous Pushkar mela; the camel and livestock fair that is held here annually which attracts throngs of tourists from all over the world. Pushkar is an interesting place to visit, especially to see the balance between the religious importance of the place and the hipster attitude it exudes!
Every November, the sleepy little township of Pushkar in Rajasthan, India comes alive with a riot of colors and a frenzied burst of activity. The occasion: PUSHKAR FAIR. Very few, if at all any, fairs in the world can match the liveliness of Pushkar. Most people associate the Pushkar Fair with the world's largest camel fair. But it is much more than that.
EPILOGUE
We spent 4 days in magical and mystical Pushkar. A small town in the dessert well known for its Brahmin Temple and Sacred Lake. Here, thousands of pilgrims come at least once a year to participate in a Karmic Ceremony and wash away their sins by the lake. I gave many thanks for how fortunate I am, prayed for my loved ones and the ones that have left this world. After the ceremony, one throws flowers into the lake and makes a wish.
It is an occasion for villagers from far and near to gather together and enjoy a welcome break from their harsh life of the arid desert. And enjoy they do! In dazzling style and colors. It is an occasion for Hindu pilgrims to converge for a holy dip in the sacred Pushkar Lake to "wash away the sins of a lifetime" and pay obeisance at the ONLY Brahma temple in the world.
What really surprised me about the town was the type of tourists that were in Pushkar. It seems that many people travel to Pushkar for a variety of reasons; some for the religious pilgrimage, others for the general experience and for the vast majority it was to spend some quality time with Mary Jane.
Yet in spite of this, pilgrims still make their way to Pushkar and perform puja (prayers) at the many bathing ghats that surround the now dry lake. The scene is peaceful and powerful – bathers gather in the water while cows wander the steps and holy men provide flower petals and blessings to visitors.
So if you want to experience the highs of living a peaceful life, steeped in unique culture, pushkar is the place. Found in the true glory of it's history, will connect you to the good life. For the visitor, it is an unparalleled and unforgettable experience to capture the vibrancy of the entire state of Rajasthan in one place. Pushkar is one of those town which has amazing life running underneath and that part will only be intangible if you stay for long. This blog post attempts to give you a glimpse of the magic of Pushkar. Of course, you have to be there to truly understand it.
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